Climbing in Korakofolia, Parnitha – Athens, Greece

Mt. Parnitha is located in Attiki province, 25km N from the city of Athens.It is one of the 4 mountains(the others are Immitos, Penteli and Aigaleo) that surround the circular plain,in which the city of Athens is built. Mt Parnitha is the talllest and more impressive among the mountains that surround Athens.

Although hiking is a very popular activity in Parnitha there are few climbing crags that offer some great routes not far away from Athens city centre. One of the crags is Korakofolia (literally meaning: “Raven’s Nest” in Greek).

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080820_047 — Korakofolia climbing crag

Korakofolia had long remained below the climbing radar despite the fact that the place had offered published ascents since 1995. In fact, some of the most aesthetic lines of the cliff (like “Anatoli”, “Ogdoi Tehni” and “Folia”) were established during the 90s. However, the place was seldom visited and the lines only sporadically repeated before the new millennium.

A complete guidebook for climbing in Athens here: Athens Climbing Guidebook

see other outdoor activities on Mount Parnitha here:

Climbing on Flabouri Ridge (Parnitha)
Christmas Ascent on Mount Parnitha
Training on Mount Parnitha
Via Ferrata Arma – Parnitha
Climbing in Epos Fylis
Climbing in Pano Alogopetra

About Korakofolia

One of the most popular Athenian cliffs, Korakofolia (literally meaning: “Raven’s Nest” in Greek) is located inside the gully of Ag. Georgios close to the suburb of Thrakomakedones, on southeast Parnitha.

Korakofolia has grown to become a hugely popular summer crag for Athens-residing climbers. The crag is sweetly located, surrounded by pine forests sheltering the area from the summer heat. The place is a natural cooler, truly a haven for climbing during the hot summer months when downtown Athens is a boiling cauldron. Due to location and the user-friendly grades / bolting, Korakofolia is an extremely well-liked cliff.

Climbing in Korakofolia offers great variety. Vertical walls on crimps and pockets are predominant but one can also find overhanging routes, even the occasional tufa. Dihedrals and winding cracks are also present on some of the most distinctive and beautiful routes of the crag. The rock is solid limestone, sharp in places. The crag has been meticulously cleaned of most loose rock. Scattered among the hundreds of shiny bolts one might encounter the odd piton or non-certified bolt (on old routes). These items are not to be relied upon but fortunately are never necessary.

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080757_756 — Korakofolia climbing crag as seen from the approach trail

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__082331_769 — Korakofolia climbing crag

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081734_331 — Korakofolia climbing crag

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080837_878 — Korakofolia climbing crag

Access

To reach the crag by private vehicle exit Attiki Odos on Exit #8 (or #8A) for the E75 highway (direction to Lamia). Leave the E75 after about 5km at the signposted exit Thrakomakedones – Olympic Village (ΘΡΑΚΟΜΑΚΕΔΟΝΕΣ – ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑΚΟ ΧΩΡΙΟ). Turn left at the traffic light in order to cross the bridge over the E75. Continue on the main road, passing after 3km the gate of the Olympic village (to your right). At the end of the main road turn left (traffic light) on Antiohou Street (ΑΝΤΙΟΧΟΥ), pass the first junction (where the street name changes to Neariou (ΝΕΑΡΙΟΥ)) and then immediately turn right to M. Alexandrou Street (Μ. ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΥ).

Stay on Megalou Alexandrou as it goes uphill and after 2,7km turn left to Thrakis Street (ΘΡΑΚΗΣ) and after 50m turn left to Filias ton Laon Street (ΦΙΛΙΑΣ ΤΩΝ ΛΑΩΝ).
Follow the road till it meets with Parnithοs Street (ΠΑΡΝΗΘΟΣ) and then turn right. After 350m reach wide parking space where the cable car ascends to the casino.
After the parking, continue for 500m and turn left on slightly descending dirt road. Soon, the road splits. Keep right. Continue for 600m until another dirt road descending to your left. At this point go straight for another 100m and park your car. The footpath to the crag can be seen to your right.

Alternatively, after entering E75 highway from Attiki Odos (direction towards Lamia), take the first exit and on the first traffic light turn left on Tatoiou Street – (ΤΑΤΟΪΟΥ). Continue over the bridge and keep straight. Follow this road, crossing several traffic lights, for 9,5km, passing initially through urban areas and later through the forested foothills of Mt Parnitha. Upon reaching the casino cable car parking lot, continue as described above.

Note: The condition of dirt roads changes significantly each season depending on last winter’s rains. Check on the spot and walk a bit more if necessary. Τotal distance: 800-1000m depending on sector, walking time: 12-15min, total positive altitude: 80-100m.

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080423_953 — Parking Lot

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080450_862 — Trail path to Korakofolia

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080506_341 — Trail path to Korakofolia

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080526_513 — Trail path to Korakofolia

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080550_063 — Trail path to Korakofolia

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080605_681 — First view of the crag

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080638_957 — Panoramic view of the crag

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__082541_396 — a climber as seen from the approach path

The Routes

This is a superb location for year round climbing, though the best option is from April to October after 12.00

Central Sector

Name	Grade	Meters
Boufos	6b+	20
Photograpos	6c	20
Makarena	6b+	20
Tonosi	7c	20
Ektonosi	7a	20
8 texni	7a	20
Koukouloforos	7b+	18
Papous o Panagiotis	6c	20
Ai Giorgis	6c	20
Kopsi Korasidon	5c	20
I Proti mou	5b+	30
Thima	7c	20
Fonias	7b	20
Saltarismenos	6c+	25
Trompetistas	6b+	25
Anatoli	6b	25
Sfigga	6c+	20
Sfina	7b	20
Zoro	6c	20
Falaggi	6c	18
Skathari	6c	20
Folia	6c	30
Davani	6b+	25
O Manos pou gelai	6a	15
Dorea	5c+	15
Pnoi	5b+	18
Poios me poio	5a	20
Kale ou ou	5a+	20
Bonsai	6a	30
Kali Parea	6a+	25
Patir & Ios	6b	20
Alkyoni	6b	20
Methods ton Trion	4c	20
Stigmes Haras	5b	18
Piragmena Miala	6a+	18

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__080936_727 — Warm up climb “Pnoi” 5b+

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081003_714 — Warm up climb “Pnoi” 5b+

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081524_344 — Anatoli 6b

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081543_358 — Anatoli 6b

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081608_714 — Anatoli 6b

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081638_523 — Anatoli 6b

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081717_299 — Anatoli 6b

Climbing_Korakofolia_Parnitha__081802_648 — Belaying

The transformation of Korakofolia from a forgotten cliff to a thriving, well-equipped sport climbing hotspot started in 2007 when D. Tsitsikas visited the spot and realised its potential. Soon enough, the first new lines were opened (“Ai Giorgis”, “O Pappous o Panagiotis”) and some of the old ones were maintained. After 2009 the “new” crag started to become known to the community and more climbers (D. Titopoulos, K. Lafogiannis, D. Katsoulas G. Kagiaftakis and others) joined D. Tsitsikas in the route setting effort. In 2009, the bolting of the upper sector also commenced. Nowadays, the potential for new lines seems to be all but exhausted.