Climbing in Korakofolia, Parnitha – Athens, Greece

Mt. Parnitha is located in Attiki province, 25km N from the city of Athens.It is one of the 4 mountains(the others are Immitos, Penteli and Aigaleo) that surround the circular plain,in which the city of Athens is built. Mt Parnitha is the talllest and more impressive among the mountains that surround Athens.

Although hiking is a very popular activity in Parnitha there are few climbing crags that offer some great routes not far away from Athens city centre. One of the crags is Korakofolia (literally meaning: “Raven’s Nest” in Greek).

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Korakofolia climbing crag

 

Korakofolia had long remained below the climbing radar despite the fact that the place had offered published ascents since 1995. In fact, some of the most aesthetic lines of the cliff (like “Anatoli”, “Ogdoi Tehni” and “Folia”) were established during the 90s. However, the place was seldom visited and the lines only sporadically repeated before the new millennium.


see other outdoor activities on Mount Parnitha here:


About Korakofolia

One of the most popular Athenian cliffs, Korakofolia (literally meaning: “Raven’s Nest” in Greek) is located inside the gully of Ag. Georgios close to the suburb of Thrakomakedones, on southeast Parnitha.

Korakofolia has grown to become a hugely popular summer crag for Athens-residing climbers. The crag is sweetly located, surrounded by pine forests sheltering the area from the summer heat. The place is a natural cooler, truly a haven for climbing during the hot summer months when downtown Athens is a boiling cauldron. Due to location and the user-friendly grades / bolting, Korakofolia is an extremely well-liked cliff.

Climbing in Korakofolia offers great variety. Vertical walls on crimps and pockets are predominant but one can also find overhanging routes, even the occasional tufa. Dihedrals and winding cracks are also present on some of the most distinctive and beautiful routes of the crag. The rock is solid limestone, sharp in places. The crag has been meticulously cleaned of most loose rock. Scattered among the hundreds of shiny bolts one might encounter the odd piton or non-certified bolt (on old routes). These items are not to be relied upon but fortunately are never necessary.

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Korakofolia climbing crag as seen from the approach trail
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Korakofolia climbing crag
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Korakofolia climbing crag
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Korakofolia climbing crag

Access

To reach the crag by private vehicle exit Attiki Odos on Exit #8 (or #8A) for the E75 highway (direction to Lamia). Leave the E75 after about 5km at the signposted exit Thrakomakedones – Olympic Village (ΘΡΑΚΟΜΑΚΕΔΟΝΕΣ – ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑΚΟ ΧΩΡΙΟ). Turn left at the traffic light in order to cross the bridge over the E75. Continue on the main road, passing after 3km the gate of the Olympic village (to your right). At the end of the main road turn left (traffic light) on Antiohou Street (ΑΝΤΙΟΧΟΥ), pass the first junction (where the street name changes to Neariou (ΝΕΑΡΙΟΥ)) and then immediately turn right to M. Alexandrou Street (Μ. ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΥ).

Stay on Megalou Alexandrou as it goes uphill and after 2,7km turn left to Thrakis Street (ΘΡΑΚΗΣ) and after 50m turn left to Filias ton Laon Street (ΦΙΛΙΑΣ ΤΩΝ ΛΑΩΝ).
Follow the road till it meets with Parnithοs Street (ΠΑΡΝΗΘΟΣ) and then turn right. After 350m reach wide parking space where the cable car ascends to the casino.
After the parking, continue for 500m and turn left on slightly descending dirt road. Soon, the road splits. Keep right. Continue for 600m until another dirt road descending to your left. At this point go straight for another 100m and park your car. The footpath to the crag can be seen to your right.

Alternatively, after entering E75 highway from Attiki Odos (direction towards Lamia), take the first exit and on the first traffic light turn left on Tatoiou Street – (ΤΑΤΟΪΟΥ). Continue over the bridge and keep straight. Follow this road, crossing several traffic lights, for 9,5km, passing initially through urban areas and later through the forested foothills of Mt Parnitha. Upon reaching the casino cable car parking lot, continue as described above.

Note: The condition of dirt roads changes significantly each season depending on last winter’s rains. Check on the spot and walk a bit more if necessary. Τotal distance: 800-1000m depending on sector, walking time: 12-15min, total positive altitude: 80-100m.

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Parking Lot 
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Trail path to Korakofolia
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Trail path to Korakofolia
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Trail path to Korakofolia
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Trail path to Korakofolia
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First view of the crag
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Panoramic view of the crag
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a climber as seen from the approach path

The Routes

This is a superb location for year round climbing, though the best option is from April to October after 12.00

Central Sector

Name

Grade

Meters

Boufos

6b+

20

Photograpos

6c

20

Makarena

6b+

20

Tonosi

7c

20

Ektonosi

7a

20

8 texni

7a

20

Koukouloforos

7b+

18

Papous o Panagiotis

6c

20

Ai Giorgis

6c

20

Kopsi Korasidon

5c

20

I Proti mou

5b+

30

Thima

7c

20

Fonias

7b

20

Saltarismenos

6c+

25

Trompetistas

6b+

25

Anatoli

6b

25

Sfigga

6c+

20

Sfina

7b

20

Zoro

6c

20

Falaggi

6c

18

Skathari

6c

20

Folia

6c

30

Davani

6b+

25

O Manos pou gelai

6a

15

Dorea

5c+

15

Pnoi

5b+

18

Poios me poio

5a

20

Kale ou ou

5a+

20

Bonsai

6a

30

Kali Parea

6a+

25

Patir & Ios

6b

20

Alkyoni

6b

20

Methods ton Trion

4c

20

Stigmes Haras

5b

18

Piragmena Miala

6a+

18

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Warm up climb “Pnoi” 5b+
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Warm up climb “Pnoi” 5b+
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Anatoli 6b
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Anatoli 6b
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Anatoli 6b
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Anatoli 6b
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Anatoli 6b
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Anatoli 6b
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Belaying

The transformation of Korakofolia from a forgotten cliff to a thriving, well-equipped sport climbing hotspot started in 2007 when D. Tsitsikas visited the spot and realised its potential. Soon enough, the first new lines were opened (“Ai Giorgis”, “O Pappous o Panagiotis”) and some of the old ones were maintained. After 2009 the “new” crag started to become known to the community and more climbers (D. Titopoulos, K. Lafogiannis, D. Katsoulas G. Kagiaftakis and others) joined D. Tsitsikas in the route setting effort. In 2009, the bolting of the upper sector also commenced. Nowadays, the potential for new lines seems to be all but exhausted.

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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+ Crux
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+ Crux
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+ crux
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Trobetistas-Chrysafenia 6b+ 6b

Once again, I have had a really nice day climbing nearby Athens and I highly recommend this crag


If you liked this post, see more rock climb activities on the links bellow:

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