Climbing in Katafyki Gorge – Ermioni, Argolis

About 4 km away from Ermioni there is a great hiking opportunity in Katafyki Gorge. This route is suitable for all the family due to the easy trail of only 2,5 kilometres. The wild beauty of this gorge will astonish you. Of course, this route can be extended up to 7 kilometres if one wants to hike from Katafyki Gorge up to the village of Fournoi.

Katafyki gorge is a beautiful natural landscape, located between the villages of Fournoi and Ermioni. It consists of a protected area of outstanding beauty and a wild life refuge that attracts the most demanding visitors. Hikers can leave their car in Ermioni and take the path that passes through the dense vegetation of pines, laurels, myrtles, shrubs and other endemic plants. The sound of the running water and the presence of rare animals and wild birds give the impression of an earthly paradise. The imposing rough rocks host mysterious caves, one of which is said to consist of the entrance to the underworld, the point from where Hercules found Cerberus. The locals narrate stories of various offenders that used the caves as refuge.

Climbing_Katafyki_Ermioni_Argolis_2305 — Good Dag 6a+

Climbing activities in Katafyki

Katafyki means refuge in Greek, the villagers used to hide there from the Turks/pirates. A ravine about 3,5km from the coastal town of Ermioni with a main face about 130m high, I have explored the cliffs further up and on the other side but as yet no routes there. Parking directly under the cliff so no walk in! All year climbing as the main wall is shaded after midday. 45 routes here of which 7 are single pitch adventure routes,12 are multi pitch adventure up to 5 pitches 123m, 23 are single pitch sport routes and 3 are multi-pitch bolt routes up to 6 pitches 150m. All adventure routes have bolted belays and abseil pistes are equipped. Walk off o.k. in rockboots. Grades 4c to 7c+

Easy access, parking by the cliff, over 100m high, super rock, quality routes, monster holds, slabs, overhangs, roofs, nice place and all year climbing. What more do you want?

A narrow ravine with a good dirt road running up to the water pumping station for Ermioni, (the bridge was built for a mining railway). A pleasant walk up the wooded valley brings you to a lot more rock.

A good area for young children to play in the dry river bed.

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6467 — Towards Katafyki Gorge

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6470 — Beautiful road towards Katafyki via organic olive groves

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6471 — Climbing wall

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6472 — Climbing wall

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6473 — Climbing wall

Ermioni_Katafyki_Katafiki_6474 — St. Nikolaos byzantine church

Access: From the main road below Kranidi take the road towards Ermioni.At the end of a long straight which is slowly being widened (obvious) turn left at a new building.Follow the tarred road to a T junction.Turn left here,drive to the end of the tarred section and then for 500m good dirt road to the ravine.OR drive into Ermioni,turn left and take the coast road to Thermisia. At the end of Ermioni take a left turn signposted Katafyki Ravine.

By Boat: Good harbour in Ermioni, the cliff is ca 4 km walk or get a taxi.

Note: If you are coming from the Didyma area you can save a long drive by taking the small road left just before you come to the village of Fourni, follow this past a church to its end where there is a parking place. From here it is a pleasant 10 min stroll to the main cliff.

The routes

From some great climbs the outstanding line here is The Red Empire which uncompromisingly goes straight up the midlle of the cliff with a large roof at half height. The first ascent was an onsight trad effort with the roof being an aid section. Now fully bolted (52 bolts) this is a great roof climb 60m off the ground if you can push 7c+ or more.

Covering a lot of spectacular ground at a moderate grade Zorro has all the makings of a modern classic, plenty of bolts, 6 pitches and 150m long. This one zigzags improbably up the cliff at 6b (5c+ obl.). Before you leave, climb Heroes, 2x30m pitches, solid 6a and probably one of the best routes in Argolis.

Climbing_Katafyki_Ermioni_Argolis_2302 — Iassu 5B+

Sector: Welcome

The Welcome sector is the first sector as one arrives to Katafyki from Ermioni. It is the most accessible sector and there is plenty of space to even camp overnight. The routes on this sector are very nice and they go from 4b but to 6C. The first routes were intended to be for trad climbing (first ascents by J. Titt), but on a later stage have been bolted by Hans Wenigner. Therefore these routes have big run outs, and especially the first 5 routes.

Most of the belays are closed type belay, thus the climber needs to perform the whole rope operation once on belay. Furthermore, the first 4 routes, is advisable to come down from the rock with abseil, so the ropes will not be damaged from the rocks.

	Name	Grade
1	Ade	6b+
2	Jassu	5c
3	Namaste	6a
4	Hola	5c+
5	Bonjour	6a
6	Welcome	5c
7	Bienvenuto	6a
8	Hei	6a+
9	Olala	6b
10	God Dag	6a+
11	Gruezi	5c+
12	Tach	5a
13	Answer	V
14	The Question	5c
15	MT Direct	5c+
16	Sabbatical	6b
17	Savage Girl	6c+
18	Savage Man	6b+
19	Sidestep	6c
20	Force War	6a+

Climbing_Katafyki_Ermioni_Argolis_2308 — Olala 6b

Sabbatical 6b

Force war 6a+

Sector Heroes

	Name	Grade
1	Heroes	L1 6a / L2 6a
2	Rotzfatz	6a+
3	Rockstar	6a
4	Villains	5b+
5	At the edge	L1 6a / L2 5c
6	Saints	5c
7	Last Hero	L1 6b / L2 6a+
8	Brake	5c+
9	Fighting Jim	6b

Sector Red Empire

	Name	Grade
1	The Red Empire	L1 6a+ / L2 6c+ L3 7c+ / L4 5b / L5 5b
2	Heaven	5c
3	Sinner’s	5a
4	Prayer	5a
5	Sue’s Party	IV (4L)
6	Zorro	L1 5b+ / L2 6b+ (6a+ obl) L3 6a / L4 5c / L5 5a / L6 4a

Sector Handbitter

	Name	Grade
1	Yassas	6b
2	Mercy	5c
3	Lucky	6a+
4	Red Rooster	V (5L)
5	Golden Brown	5b
6	Handbitter	5c
7	Brown Sugar	5c
8	Hole in the wall	5b
9	Rolling Stone	6a+
10	Sticky fingers	6a
11	Ruby Tuesday	5c+

Sector Holiday

	Name	Grade
1	He Ha	6a+
2	Sunday outing	V- (5L)
3	Gstotti was here	6a+
4	Loch im Bauch	6a+
5	Holiday	6b
6	Tamara	4c
7	Kryptikos	6c+
8	Verena	4c
9	Via SCKC	6a
10	Mythos	5b+
11	Amstel	5c
12	5l	5b
13	Nine Dragons	5b+
14	Come On	5c+
15	The Dragon’s tail	V