Climbing in Acharneis – Athens

Athens is the capital of Greece. It was also at the heart of Ancient Greece, a powerful civilization and empire. The city is still dominated by 5th-century BC landmarks, including the Acropolis, a hilltop citadel topped with ancient buildings like the colonnaded Parthenon temple. Although there is plenty cultural and historical sights in and around Athens, a climber has 2.000 more reasons in order to visit this magnificent city.

Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

In the past, we have visited some other crags which are located near Athens, such as Etos Spata, Pano Alogopetra, Epos Fylis and Korakofolia.

This time though, we have visited one of the most famous crags of Athens, the Acharneis crag.

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Rock in Acharneis

 

Acharneis was developed by members of the Acharneis Mountaineering club as training ground for beginners and climbing schools. The character of the crag reflects this in every aspect, from the dense bolting to the zero-time access even the sitting benches below the routes. It’s undeniably one of the most popular crags in Athens attracting mostly novice climbers. In terms of geology, the rock is grey compact limestone of superb quality, dotted with pockets and cracks. Climbing is mostly on faces but quite variable. For the huge traffic it receives, the rock is admirably resistant to polishing.

Location-wise, the crag is situated above the popular tavernas of Fyli, which can get noisy on weekends, but otherwise the views are open and the north facing orientation make the place a good choice for warm days.

Acharneis is one of the best equipped crags in Athens (with the few bolting errors being corrected in the recent 2012 maintenance) strictly adopting the “training-crag” approach.


Access

From Attiki Odos Exit #6, follow Fylis Avenue towards Fyli / Chasia (north/west).
Follow the road for 500m until big roundabout. Take the third exit on the roundabout and continue on Fylis Avenue. 3,1km after the roundabout you will see a golden-domed church on your right hand -Panagia Kanala (ΠANAΓΙΑ ΚΑΝΑΛΑ) and a football pitch on your left.

After the golden-domed Panagia Kanala church continue straight for approximately 1,6km. Turn left just before reaching taverna “to Elato” (ΕΛΑΤΟ) going uphill on Marinou Antipa Street (ΜΑΡΙΝΟΥ ΑΝΤΥΠΑ), then after 20m turning to Amaryllidos Street (ΑΜΑΡΥΛΛΙΔΟΣ). Either park after 100m for sector “Kolones” (visible on your left – 5min walk) or continue for another 400m until the obligatory U-turn.
Stay on the road which after 100m changes to a dirt road. A further 100m on the dirt road will lead you to the parking spot (road side) just below the crag. Blue marks will get you to the main sector in 2 minutes.

For “Mavros Pit” sector continue uphill from the left side of Acharneis on clear footpath (3min from “Acharneis”).

Total walking distance 50m, walking time: 2min, total positive altitude: 20m.

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Stating Point of the trail towards the crag

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Trail signs
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View from the trail towards Fyli village
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Acharneis Sport Climbing Crag

History of Acharneis Crag

The inspiration for a crag to serve as training ground for new climbing schools and the actual shaping of Acharneis into exactly that, can be attributed to Aris Theodoropoulos. He, together with Dimitris Karalis and Danai Argiropoulou, opened the first routes in 2003 creating the official training ground of Acharneis Mountaineering Club.

Two years later, most of the routes on the lower smaller outcrop, later to be nicknamed by climbers “Kolones”, were established by K. Lafogiannis, S. Sotiriou, G. Aliferis and M. Senis. A series of boulders problems are also established at the time around the small rocks in the area by the same climbers.

In 2008, on a second bolting initiative, many climbers among which T. Michailidis, D. Stavrakakis, P. Karaberopoulos, N. Balafoutis, G. Kagiaftakis and A. Theodoropoulos open the remaining routes on the main sector.

In 2011 A.Paraskevopoulos et al opened a few routes on sector Kolones.

Finally, in the summer of 2012 A. Theodoropoulos carried out maintainance to anchors and bolts assisted by K. Roussou, G. Koutsoukis, M. Nikolakis and A. Parasekopoulos.

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Piladis 6a+
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Scholastix 5b+

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View from the crag
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Derketis 5c+
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Derketis 5c+

Useful Information

Best Period: Autumn and Spring have ideal conditions. The Crag faces to the north and is in the shade from 12.00 to 18.00. Even in the summer a light breeze and shade make us forget the heat.

Bolts: All routes are relatively tightly secured with stainless steel bolts. For repetition, they need only quickdraws. All anchor points are equipped with stainless carabiners. At the top of the rock (over Pyladi to Xanthi) there are permanent fuses for use on educational rappel.

Necessary gear: Rope of 60 meters and minimum 12 quickdraws


The Routes

Name

Grade

Meters

Chalaourita

4a

8

Roukounas

4c

8

Ovelix

5a+

12

Intefix

5c

15

Scholastic

5b+

15

Asterix

6a+

20

Orestis

6a

15

Pyladis

6a+

18

Tsila

6b+

20

Kalhas

7b

20

Tiresias

7a

20

Aristofanis

6c+

20

Xanthia

6c

20

Gerobisbikis

5v

22

Driidis

6a+

20

EMO

6a+

20

Trendy

6a

20

Kagouras

5c+

20

Carlito Smile

5c

18

Diadochos

5c+

15

Andriki

5c+

15

Aperado Galayo

5a

20

Nisi Trizonia

5a

20

Trizonia Direct

5b

20

Derketis

5c+

18

Nontas Nikas

6a

15

Je t’aime

5c

12

Plaka me kanels

5c+

12

Pinaleon

5c

13

Eimai Efkoli

5b

10

Mirmigofolia

5b+

10

Climbing_Acharnis_Parnitha20190619_222436_052

Climbing_Acharnis_Parnitha20190619_222503_181
Derketis 5c+

Climbing_Acharnis_Parnitha20190619_222559_490

Climbing_Acharnis_Parnitha20190619_222731_898
Nisi Trizonia 5a
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Nisi Trizonia 5a
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Nisi Trizonia 5a
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Nisi Trizonia 5a
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Trendy 6a
Climbing_Acharnis_Parnitha20190619_222913_594
Trendy 6a
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Trendy 6a
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Trendy 6a
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Trendy 6a

Once again, I have had a really nice day climbing nearby Athens and I highly recommend this crag


If you liked this post, see more rock climb activities on the links bellow:

 

5 thoughts on “Climbing in Acharneis – Athens

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