Climbing in Athens – Pano Alogopetra

As already described on a previous post, Greece is not only a sea, sun and cultural destination, but is also a great destination for mountain activities, including sport climbing too. Specifically, Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

This time, we decided to visit Pano Alogopetra. Pano Alogopetra (Greek for “Upper Alogopetra”) is a cluster of rock faces in the northern side of the Alogopetra peak, over the village of Fyli. Pano Alogopetra sits on an elevated balcony with grand view over the Fyli valley. On a clear day the eye can wander from the edge of Gkoura canyon down to the Elefsina coast on the south west and the city of Athens on the southeast. This is a great spot to enjoy a fiery winter sunset after a full day of climbing.

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2749
Alogopetra

The rock is typical limestone ranging in coloration and quality from solid compact gray to sharp mineral-sculptured white/orange. Most routes are free of loose rock. One of the crag’s most appealing qualities is the height of the routes, reaching 35 or even 45-50 meter and guaranteeing long fulfilling ventures on the vertical.

The cliff is a bird nesting area (including rare birds of prey) and after March it should be treated as such. Scan your chosen line for nests before climbing and choose another climbing area if you observe bird activity that indicates the existence of nests.


See more rock climb activities on the links bellow:


About Pano Alogopetra

Despite being an obvious face visible from far away, Pano Alogopetra has seen its first route just before the coming of the new millennium. The usual suspect H. Orfanoudakis was the first to put up routes on the cliff back in 1999. Soon enough the cause was joined by others (S. Gkezerlis, G. Aliferis, M. Mitilineos, G. Sharki , A Karapetakos) and by year 2003 a total of 33 routes had been established on the left wall. Meanwhile, G. Aliferis established an additional 4 routes in trad style on the far right wall, all with different climbing partners.

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2748
Pano Alogopetra

Access

From Attiki Odos Exit #6, follow Fylis Avenue towards Fyli / Chasia (north/west).
Follow the road for 500m until big roundabout. Take the third exit on the roundabout and continue on Fylis Avenue. 3,1km after the roundabout you will see a golden-domed church on your right hand -Panagia Kanala (ΠANAΓΙΑ ΚΑΝΑΛΑ) and a football pitch on your left.

Soon after passing the golden-domed Panagia Kanala church take the right turn opposite tο bus stop 31st Fylis (31η ΦΥΛΗΣ) following signposts to ‘‘taverna – Ta Pitharia” (Ταβέρνα -ΤΑ ΠΙΘΑΡΙΑ). 1,8km later, reach crossroad, turn right and take the left branch.

Continue straight ahead on narrow winding road for 1,6km till you reach the end of the asphalt. Either park here next to big green water tank or take the right branch of the dirt road for 50m where faint secondary dirt road leaves to the right. Follow this road till the dead end on old field. About 30 meters before the dead end, and on the left side (looking to the crag), the path to the climbing crag starts. The rocks are clearly visible and can be reached by following the faint path.

  • Total walking distance: 300m
  • Walking time: 12min
  • Total positive altitude: 90m.
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2743
Trail Sign
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2744
The Crag
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2746
Trail path
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2747
Trail sign
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2750
Climbing crag

The Routes

This is a superb location for sunny winter days and there are long fulfilling routes aimed for intermediate and experienced climbers.

Name

Grade

Meters

Hassan

6a

18

Babylino

6c

12

Master Pipilas

6b

12

Kolosseo

6a+

20

Kolovaktiridio

6a

30

Klinon Asti

6a

35

Parkinson

6a+

35

Kleoniki

5b+

35

Thanaso

5c

35

Petagma Aetou

6a

35

Elepolis

6b

35

Sahara

6c+

33

Baterman

7c

33

Parto Algo Kai Koyrefto

6c+

35

Mata Hari

6c

35

Katagma

7b+

30

Spaniola

6c

30

5,9 Richter

6b+

30

Koulouvachata

6c

33


Climbing in Pano Alogopetra

That was the first time we visited this crag and therefore we have lost track of the trail path that leads to Pano Alogopetra from the parking lot. Despite our wandering through the forest, we have managed to reach the crag in all excitement.

This crag is not the easiest to be reached and therefore we do not recommend it for families or for the lazy climber that wants easy access to the climbing crag.

It was about 11.30 in the morning and the Pano Alogopetra crag was rather full and actually we had to wait for our first route. The first route we have tried was “Petagma Aetou” 6a (Eagle’s flight), and right after it was the turn of Thanasso 5c. Both routes are very nice, but are rather demanding, especially in the crux.

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2751
Petagma Aetou

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2752

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2753
Petagma Aetou 6a

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2755

On my personal first try for that day, I have had again a sharp pain on my shoulder (like I have had the previous days) and therefore I was not able to enjoy anymore the climbing. Though, the rest continued climbing on various other routes, including Chassan, Kolovaktiridio, Koloseo and the beautiful Master Pipilas and Babylino.

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2757
Chassan 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2758
Chassan 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2759
Chassan 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2760
Chassan 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2761
Kolovaktiridio 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2762
Kolovaktiridio 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2763
Kolovaktiridio 6a
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2764
Chassan 6a

At around 15.00, the weather turned to be very mild and the sun beams were reflecting beautifully on the limestone rock. On that point, and just before ending our activities, some of our fellow climbers tried to more difficult routes, like the Babylino and Master Pipilas.

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2765
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2766
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2767
Kolosseo 6a+

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2768

Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2770
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2771
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2772
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2773
Kolosseo 6a+
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2774
Babylino 6c
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2775
Babylino 6c
Climbing_Fyli_Pano_Alogopetra_2776
Babylino 6c

After a full day of beautiful climbing near Athens, it was about time to complete our activities, collect our climbing gear and head to the parking lot. A very interesting thing about this crag was that many expats living in Greece were climbing on that specific day. People from UK, Australia and France amongst the locals.


If you liked this post, check out more rock climb activities on the links bellow:

8 thoughts on “Climbing in Athens – Pano Alogopetra

  1. Pingback: Climbing in Epos Fylis, Athens – Greece – Olympus Mountaineering

  2. Pingback: Climbing in Korakofolia, Parnitha – Athens, Greece – Olympus Mountaineering

  3. Pingback: Climbing in Acharneis – Athens – Olympus Mountaineering

  4. Pingback: Climbing in Sibligades, Penteli – Athens – Olympus Mountaineering

  5. Pingback: Climbing the North-East Rigde of Mount Hymettus (Prosilio Ridge) – Olympus Mountaineering

  6. Pingback: Trad Climbing in Varasova – Olympus Mountaineering

  7. Pingback: Climbing in Meteora – Doupiani Rock – Pantocrator’s Ridge (Ostkante/East Ridge) – Olympus Mountaineering

  8. Pingback: Climbing in Meteora – Sudostwand Doupiani – Southeast Wall – Plaka – Olympus Mountaineering

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s