Trad Climbing in Varasova

Not far away from the estuary of river Evinos, the dominating Varasova rocks emerge right where the peaceful valley of Etoliko meets the sea. Plain beauty of the scenery, exceptional solidity of the rock, easy access and sea joys were the obvious advantages which have established Varasova, as one of the most important climbing areas in Greece.

Varasova is a limestone massif near the sea, just opposite of Patra and has a height of 917 m. There are three summits of almost the same altitude. Varasova flanks, drop abruptly into the sea on the south and Southwest and this is the location of the most important walls, just between Vasiliki and Kryoneri villages.

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Varasova as seen from Kryoneri

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Climbing the North-East Rigde of Mount Hymettus (Prosilio Ridge)

Rising majestically to the east of the city of Athens, this sacred mountain is home to ancient Athenian temples and holy places. Despite human activity, Mount Hymettus remains an important natural habitat filled with diverse wildlife and vegetation.

The height is 1,026 m at Evzonas and the length is 16 km (9.9 mi) between Athens and the Saronic Gulf and 6 to 7 km from east to west. In the ancient times, the highest point was known as Mega Ymittos and the southern Elattona (Ελάττονα) and Anydro Ymitto (Άνυδρο Υμηττό). Once upon a time, mount Hymettus was noted for its thyme honey and Marble.

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Hymettus Ridge

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Multi-pitch climb on Kokkinovrachos – Leonidio – Mignonette

Leonidio (Greek: Λεωνίδιο) is a town and a former municipality in Arcadia, Peloponnese, Greece. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the municipality South Kynouria, of which it is a municipal unit. The town of Leonidio, with a population of 3.826, emerges from a spectacular landscape, bound by two abrupt mountainsides enclosing the town from the north and south.

The River Dafnon passes through the town, and its banks are linked with three bridges. The town is capital of the Tsakonia region, notable for its cultural and linguistic particularities, and the settlement itself offers striking and picturesque architecture; now a protected architectural site, there are very strict regulations for building within the town’s limits.

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Kokkinovrachos as seen from Leonidio

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Climbing in Sibligades, Penteli – Athens

Athens is the historical capital of Europe, with a long history, dating from the first settlement in the Neolithic age. In the 5th Century BC (the “Golden Age of Pericles”) – the culmination of Athens’ long, fascinating history – the city’s values and civilization acquired a universal significance. Over the years, a multitude of conquerors occupied Athens, and erected unique, splendid monuments – a rare historical palimpsest. In 1834, it became the capital of the modern Greek state and in two centuries since it has become an attractive modern metropolis with unrivalled charm.

A large part of the town’s historic centre has been converted into a 3-kilometre pedestrian zone (the largest in Europe), leading to the major archaeological sites (“archaeological park”), reconstructing – to a large degree – the ancient landscape.

Although Athens is rich in historical and cultural sites, Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

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Climbing on Red Wall

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Climbing in Acharneis – Athens

Athens is the capital of Greece. It was also at the heart of Ancient Greece, a powerful civilization and empire. The city is still dominated by 5th-century BC landmarks, including the Acropolis, a hilltop citadel topped with ancient buildings like the colonnaded Parthenon temple. Although there is plenty cultural and historical sights in and around Athens, a climber has 2.000 more reasons in order to visit this magnificent city.

Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

In the past, we have visited some other crags which are located near Athens, such as Etos Spata, Pano Alogopetra, Epos Fylis and Korakofolia.

This time though, we have visited one of the most famous crags of Athens, the Acharneis crag.

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Rock in Acharneis

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Climbing in Korakofolia, Parnitha – Athens, Greece

Mt. Parnitha is located in Attiki province, 25km N from the city of Athens.It is one of the 4 mountains(the others are Immitos, Penteli and Aigaleo) that surround the circular plain,in which the city of Athens is built. Mt Parnitha is the talllest and more impressive among the mountains that surround Athens.

Although hiking is a very popular activity in Parnitha there are few climbing crags that offer some great routes not far away from Athens city centre. One of the crags is Korakofolia (literally meaning: “Raven’s Nest” in Greek).

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Korakofolia climbing crag

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Climbing in Epos Fylis, Athens – Greece

While travelling around Greece, I stayed in Athens for a couple of days and I took the opportunity to go and climb in one of the newest climbing crags of Athens, the Epos Fylis crag. Athens area offers more than 2000 single pitch bolted lines in more than 40 crags and new routes are constantly popping up. In addition there are 4 multi pitch walls with trad lines, plenty of bouldering and a lot of potential for deep water solo.

Usually, the Epos Fylis crag is visited by many climbers due to its proximity to Athens and for the fact it is a well maintained crag. Though, on the day -and time- we have visited the crag it was nice and comfortable and not over-crowded.

The Epos Fylis crag is one of the newest in Athens. The first line here was opened in 2012. To this day, it has been exclusively bolted by D.Tsitsikas and D.Titopoulos with materials offered by the municipality of  Fyli,  EPOS Fylis mountaineering club and assistance from some of its members.

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The Ultimate Guide of Climbing in Argolis, Greece’s

Argolis or the Argolid is one of the regional units of Greece. It is part of the region of Peloponnese, situated in the eastern part of the Peloponnese peninsula and part of the tripoint area of Argolis, Arcadia and Corinthia. Much of the territory of this region is situated in the Argolid Peninsula.

Most arable land lies in the central part of Argolis. Its primary agricultural resources are oranges and olives. Argolis has a coastline on the Saronic Gulf in the northeast and on the Argolic Gulf in the south and southeast. Notable mountains ranges are the Oligyrtos in the northwest, Lyrkeio and Ktenia in the west, and Arachnaio and Didymo in the east. Continue reading “The Ultimate Guide of Climbing in Argolis, Greece’s”

Climbing in Solomos (Tsouba) – Corinth

Solomos (or Tsouba) is located south of Corinth, near the homonymous village of the prefecture of Corinthia.

The crag had begun to be created since 2005, but recently a wide maintenance and enrichment with new routes was carried out by the mountain guide Dimitris Titopoulos, following actions and support from the EOS of Corinth and the Municipality of Corinth.

The crag is located in a quiet spot above the orchards with the olive trees, with beautiful views towards Akrocorinthos and the Corinthian Gulf. Akrocorinthos is a steep rocky hill that dominates the Corinth plain. It was the fortified citadel of ancient and medieval Corinth.

Solomos was discovered in 2005 as a climbing crag by K. Thomas who, along with A. Bosco, began to open the first two routes.

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Climbing in Didima – Argolis

During winter time, I particularly enjoy all different winter mountaineering activities, though due to the fact I need to keep track with my rock climbing skills, I have to “sacrifice” a winter mountaineering ascent and instead to go and visit a crag for some sport climbing. By keeping that in mind, I decided to visit one more crag in the Argolis region.

The Argolis district of Greece, which includes the city of Nafplio, is at the southern end of the Greek mainland and is a popular holiday destination.  The majority of the crags are easily accessible, together with plenty of beaches and many archaeological interests. This is an ideal area to go rock climbing for families with children and for groups with different interests, as well as a dedicated rock climbing holiday.

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Didima Crag

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